Black Barley with Mushroom Broth

Place the barley in a bowl with 3 cups cold water to cover, then cover and chill at least 12 hours.

Drain the barley, reserving the soaking liquid. Bring the barley, mushroom stems, bay leaves, and 5 cups water to a boil. Add 1 tablespoon salt, reduce the heat, and simmer very gently, stirring occasionally, until tender and nearly dry, 80–90 minutes. Drain, spread on a baking sheet to cool, and discard the mushroom stems and bay leaves.

Meanwhile, bring a saucepan of water to a boil, gently lower in the eggs, and cook 6 minutes. Transfer to ice water, cool, and peel.

Thinly slice the mushroom caps and place half in a saucepan with the reserved soaking liquid. Boil, then simmer until the liquid takes on mushroom flavor, 10–12 minutes; season with salt and strain through a fine-mesh sieve.

Divide the barley among bowls. Top with radish and the remaining mushrooms. Halve the eggs lengthwise and tuck in yolk-side up, nestle the kimchi alongside, and pour the mushroom broth over. Garnish with cilantro and a drizzle of oil. (The barley can be soaked 1 day ahead.)